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Baking By Flavor

Ella's picture

Baking By Flavor (post #62595)


I noticed a post about this book when I was looking through the messages in this forum, but it is almost a year old now, so I hope it will be OK to start a new thread about it.

I borrowed this book from my local library in December and then broke down and bought it in January. 

Not a good book for those trying to lose weight (count me in that category), but I love baking and I'm loving this book.  Thought I'd share some of the recipes I've tried and what I thought of them.  I'd be interested in hearing the thoughts and results of others too.

Almond and Bittersweet Chocolate Nugget Cookies...I've made this twice so far and will certainly be making them again.  Even my husband who normally doesn't like nuts in baked goods fights me for the last few.  When I bake, I usually send some goodies to work with my husband so I can fulfill my desire/cravings to bake, but I won't have all the goodies tempting me.  My husband's co-workers also quite liked these.

Chocolate, Coconut, and Chocolate Chip Bar Cookies...Made these yesterday.  I substituted toasted hazelnuts for the walnuts called for in the recipe.  Really liked these too and will probably be making them again.  I'm thinking of how I could add some Nutella to this to enhance the flavour of the hazelnuts. (I love Nutella)

Coconut Cream Coffee Cake Buns...a lot of work and not really worth the effort IMO.  I still have some frozen waiting to be eaten, but I suspect they may not meet that end.  The Coconut Pastry Cream (filling) was good though.  May keep as an idea for a special topping for strawberries or some such.

Coconut Tea Cake...not something that kept me up at night with craving, but still pretty good.  I made it for a dessert for dinner I had with friends a couple of weeks ago.  Most people had seconds and one even had thirds (I gave that guy a big piece to take home).  I whirled some mango and a bit of peach (canned) in the blender with a bit of lime juice to spoon over top.  I made a similar recipe that appeared in the Oct 2000 issue of Bon Appetit.  I'll probably make it again, but probably not often and not unless there will be a crowd to minimize the left-overs.

Lemon Crepes with Silky Lemon Cream...I halved the recipe and quite liked this one.  Nice lemon twist on the crepes and will probably use this recipe in the future if I make a dessert crepe.  The cream was pretty good too, but a little too tart, but that may be partly my fault...I used a little too much in the crepe, which probably biased me against it.  Still, I prefer a different crepe filling.  As an aside, the filling is very similar to the one used in Cook's Illustrated Lemon Tart recipe (Jan/Feb 2000), which I've made a couple times and is very good.  So, I'll make both again, but not for the purpose of using them together.

Feathery Rum Pancakes with Creamy Brown Sugar and Rum Sauce....made these twice so far, but liked them better the first time.   Nice rum flavour, but not too overwhelming.

That's all I've tried so far, considering I've had the book for less than a month (even counting the library time), I think I should have my husband hide it from me for a while!   So far my only real "complaint" is that the author (Lisa Yockelson) seems to call for fresh grated nutmeg in every recipe.  While I don't dislike nutmeg, I associate it more with savory foods because my mom always added it to her ground beef.  I do use it in some baked goods, but I usually omit or lessen the amounts in Lisa's recipes.  I'm more of a cinnamon lover myself.


MadMom's picture

(post #62595, reply #1 of 16)

Would love the recipe for the lemon crepes and silky lemon creme...could you possibly post it?  Don't know why, but I've really been craving lemon things lately.

Things are going to get a lot worse before they get worse.
Lily Tomlin

Ella's picture

(post #62595, reply #2 of 16)

Here you go...when I made this, I skipped the refrigeration step of the lemon cream.  Also, you will notice that the lemon cream recipe calls for salt at two different points in the directions, but only one amount in the ingredient list...this is a mistake of the book, not something I've omitted.

I made a blueberry sauce and served this over top.

* Exported from MasterCook *

                            Silky Lemon Cream

Recipe By     :Lisa Yockelson
Serving Size  : 0     Preparation Time :0:00
Categories    :

  Amount  Measure       Ingredient -- Preparation Method
--------  ------------  --------------------------------
  6              large  egg yolks
  1       cup plus 2 tablespoons  superfine sugar
     2/3           cup  fresh lemon juice -- strained
  7        tablespoons  unsalted butter -- cool (but not soft), cut into small cubes
  1         tablespoon  fresh grated lemon rind
                 pinch  salt
     1/4           cup  heavy cream

Combine egg yolks, granulated sugar, and salt in a large heavy nonreactive saucepan (preferably enameled cast iron), using a wooden spoon or flat wooden paddle.  [Mixture texture observation from the book:  At first, the mixture will be heavy, wet, and sandy textured, but after a minute or so of mixing, it will become a little more stirable.].  Whisk for 1 to 2 minutes.

Stir in the lemon juice and cold cubes of butter. 

Set the saucepan over moderate heat and cook, stirring continuously, for 10 to 11 minutes or until lightly thickened.  Do not allow the mixture to simmer merrily along, or the lemon base will have a gummy texture when chilled.  Using a heavy pan for this is important because it diffuses and moderates the heat. [Thickness observation from the book:  At this point, the lemon base should lightly coat a wooden spoon or paddle and will be ultra-smooth.]  Using cool butter initially helps to keep the lemon mixture creamy-textured, rather than dense or oily. (If it is overcooked in the saucepan to very thick, the lemon mixture will have a gluey, slightly adhesive quality).

Turn off the heat and let the lemon base stand in the pan for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring continuously.  The residual heat will finish the thickening process.  Stir in the lemon rind and salt.  Scrape the lemon base in to a nonreactive medium-size mixing bowl.

Set the bowl containing the lemon base in a large mixing bowl one-third filled with cold water and two or three handfuls of ice cubes.  Let the lemon mixture cool down for 20 mintues, stirring frequently with a rubber spatula.  {Thickness observation from the book:  after 20 minutes, the lemon base will be as thick as soft pudding, and thickly coat a wooden spoon, spatula, or flat wooden paddle.  remove the bowl containing the lemon base form the water bath and thoroughly dry the outside.

Scrape the lemon mixture into a nonreactive storage container, cover and refrigerate overnight.  It will firm up a little more after and overnight refrigeration.  The lemon base can be stored in the refrigerator for two days.

Just before using it, scrape the lemon base into a medium-size bowl.  Gently stir in the heavy cream.  Use immediately.

  "Baking by Flavour, page 428"
  "2 2/3 cups"

                                    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

NOTES : You may notice that the recipe calls for salt at two different points in the directions.  This is a mistake of the cookbook, not a typo.
Nutr. Assoc. : 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

* Exported from MasterCook *

                               Lemon Crepes

Recipe By     :Lisa Yockelson
Serving Size  : 0     Preparation Time :0:00
Categories    :

  Amount  Measure       Ingredient -- Preparation Method
--------  ------------  --------------------------------
  2              large  eggs
  2              large  egg yolks
  7        tablespoons  unsalted butter -- melted and cooled
  3        tablespoons  superfine sugar
     1/2      teaspoon  pure lemon extract
     1/8      teaspoon  salt
  1 1/3   cups plus 2 tablespoons  milk
  1       cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoon  unsifted bleached, all-purpose flour
     1/3  cup plus 2 tablespoons  unsifted, bleached cake flour
  1           teaspoon  finely grated lemon rind
                        clarified butter (for cooking the crepes)
                        Silky Lemon Cream (for filling the crepes)
                        Confectioner's sugar (for sprinkling on
                        the filled and folded crepes)

Place the whole eggs, egg yolks, melted butter, superfine sugar, lemon extract, salt, and milk in the container of a 40-ounce-capacity blender.

Cover securely and blend on low speed for 30 seconds.  Uncover the blender. 

Add the all-purpose flour and the cake flour.  cover tightly and blend on high speed to form a batter.

Uncover, then scrape down the sides of the blender with a rubber spatula to distribute the flour evenly and to break up any lingering clumps of flour.  cover the blender and blend for 30 seconds on high speed. [Consistency observation from the book:  the batter should resemble medium-thick cream.]  [Note for after chilling:  After chilling stir in up to 2 to 3 tablespoons of additional milk to restore the consistency, if necessary. }

Strain the batter through a large fine-meshed sieve into a bowl.  Stir in the grated lemon rind.  Cover and refrigerate the batter for at least 3 hours before using.  The batter must mellow in the refrigerator so that the flour is dispelled throughout the dairy mixture.  The batter can be stored in the refrigerator overnight, but must be used on the following day. 

Remove the batter from the refrigerator about 5 minutes before cooking the crepes.  Whisk well.

Heat a 6-inch-diameter crepe pan over moderately high heat. (The base of the pan will turn out a 5-inch crepe.).  Dip a double thickness of folded-over paper towels in the little softened clarified butter.  Wearing a heatproof oven glove to protect your hand, and lifting the pan off the heat at a slight tilt, quickly and carefully coat the bottom of the pan with the butter.  return the pan to the heat and let it sit on the burner for 3 seconds.

Again, using the padded glove to hold the handle, lift it away from the heat, add 2 tablespoons of the batter to the hot pan, and quickly circulate it around to coat the bottom evenly.  The trick is to cover the entire bottom of the pan with the batter quickly before it has the chance to set in one area.

Return the pan to the heat and cook for about 45 seconds, or until the crape is a lacy medium-golden colour underneath.  Turn/flip the crepe and cook on the second side for 15 to 20 seconds (this side will turn a mottled brown).

Continue to make crepes in this way, buttering the pan as necessary and overlapping the crepes slightly on a cookie sheet lined with plastic wrap.

For each serving, place a scant-tablespoon of the lemon cream on the spotty brown side of each warm crepe, and fold in half and in half again.  Sprinkle the tops lightly with the confectioners' sugar just before serving.

  "Baking by Flavour, page 430"
  "22 -25 5-inch crepes"

                                    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Per Serving (excluding unknown items): 1161 Calories; 110g Fat (84.7% calories from fat); 28g Protein; 17g Carbohydrate; 0g Dietary Fiber; 1061mg Cholesterol; 562mg Sodium.  Exchanges: 2 Lean Meat; 1 1/2 Non-Fat Milk; 20 1/2 Fat.

Serving Ideas : Make a berry sauce (blueberry, strawberry, raspberry ect.) and spoon over top.

NOTES : Needs to sit and refrigerate for at least 3 hours.
Nutr. Assoc. : 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0



MadMom's picture

(post #62595, reply #3 of 16)

Thanks so much...have printed and filed in my book of things to try.

Things are going to get a lot worse before they get worse.
Lily Tomlin

MadMom's picture

(post #62595, reply #5 of 16)

Ella - One quick the heavy cream that is mixed into the lemon cream whipped or just added "as is"?

Things are going to get a lot worse before they get worse.
Lily Tomlin

Ella's picture

(post #62595, reply #6 of 16)

Just added "as is".  And it really makes a difference to the taste/outcome too.  It is also called for in the CI (Cook's Illustrated) lemon tart recipe, but the second time I made it I forgot to add it and it wasn't as good.  I think it makes it a little more smooth and cuts the tartness a little.

MadMom's picture

(post #62595, reply #7 of 16)

Ella, made the lemon cream yesterday.  Halved the recipe, but otherwise, followed it to the letter, even including refrigerating it overnight.  It was so good, though...I'm afraid I was scraping the bowl for "tastes."  Will make the crepes and serve it tonight.  Thanks so much - this is a beautiful consistency and has a great taste.  I used some of my Meyer lemons, and they really are delicious.  Can't wait to try the whole thing.

Things are going to get a lot worse before they get worse.
Lily Tomlin

Ella's picture

(post #62595, reply #8 of 16)

Thanks for letting me know!  It always makes my day just a little more brighter to get good feedback.  I hope you'll like the crepes...the lemon flavour makes an ordinary crepe just a little more special.

I can let you know what the other recipes are under the "lemon" section of the book and post more if you'd like.  Although that is the only one I've tried in that section, I've read good things about the lemon tea cake.

MadMom's picture

(post #62595, reply #9 of 16)

Thanks, Ella - I would be interested in any recipes you have found to be really good.  I know I shouldn't eat desserts, but figure if I try to keep the portions reasonable and don't go crazy on the sweetness, they're okay.  I may just have to go buy that book!  (Not that I don't have enough cookbooks...LOL!)

Edited because the darn thing posted midsentence!

Things are going to get a lot worse before they get worse.
Lily Tomlin

Edited 2/17/2003 1:06:46 PM ET by MadMom

Ella's picture

(post #62595, reply #14 of 16)

I'm posting the cookie recipe and the rum pancakes with sauce recipe because I really liked those.  Once I type the chocolate bars into MasterCook I'll post that one too.  I sent some of those to work with my husband yesterday and he said his boss was sniffing around for seconds, but by that time they were already gone. 

A note about the cookies:  I think the yield on these is maybe a little ambitious, but can't say for sure because  I used a heaping tablespoon for each cookie (rather than the 2 tablespoons called for).  I don't even know how many they make exactly because both times I made them my husband started enjoying before they could cool completely.

I would also take a peek at these at the 12 minute mark and not the 16 minute mark (again, probably because mine were a little less than the 2-tablespoon measure called for).  I found that as the baking progressed, each batch needed a little less time, so be aware of that.

* Exported from MasterCook *

             Almond and Bittersweet Chocolate Nugget Cookies

Recipe By     :Lisa Yockelson
Serving Size  : 33    Preparation Time :0:00
Categories    : almond                          coconut

  Amount  Measure       Ingredient -- Preparation Method
--------  ------------  --------------------------------
  1 1/3           cups  all-purpose flour -- plus 3 tablespoons
     1/8      teaspoon  baking soda
     1/8      teaspoon  cream of tartar
     1/4      teaspoon  salt
  8        tablespoons  unsalted butter -- softened
  2        tablespoons  shortening -- plus 2 teaspoons
  2 1/3           cups  firmly packed brown sugar
     1/3           cup  sugar
  1              large  egg
  1           teaspoon  pure almond extract
     3/4      teaspoon  pure vanilla extract
  12            ounces  bittersweet chocolate -- cut into 1/2 - 3/4 inch nuggets
  1                cup  sweetened coconut flakes -- lightly packed
     2/3           cup  slivered almonds -- lightly toasted and cooled

Preheat the oven to 325.

Whisk the flour, baking soda, cream of tartar, and salt in a small mixing bowl.

Cream the butter and shortening in the large bowl on a mixer on moderately low speed for 2 minutes.  Add the light brown sugar and beat for 1 minute.  Add the sugar and beat for a minute longer.

Blend in the egg and the extracts.  Scrape down the sides of the mixing bowl with a rubber spatula to keep the dough even-textured. 

On low speed, add the whisked flour mixture in two additions, beating just until the particles of flour are absorbed.  Work in the chocolate nuggets, coconut, and almonds using a wooden spoon or flat wooden paddle.

Spoon rounded (not flat) 2-tablespoon-size mounds of dough onto cookie sheets, spacing the mounds about 3 inches apart.  Place nine mounds of dough on each sheet.

Bake the cookies in the preheated oven for 16 to 18 minutes, or until just set and pale golden around the edges.  Let the cookies stand on the sheets for 2 minutes, then remove them to cooling racks, using a sturdy spatula.  Store the cookies in an airtight tin.

Freshly baked, the cookies keep for 3 days. 

  "Baking By Flavour, page 131"
  "33 cookies"

                                    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Per Serving (excluding unknown items): 199 Calories; 12g Fat (48.7% calories from fat); 2g Protein; 25g Carbohydrate; 2g Dietary Fiber; 13mg Cholesterol; 37mg Sodium.  Exchanges: 1/2 Grain(Starch); 0 Lean Meat; 0 Fruit; 2 1/2 Fat; 1 Other Carbohydrates.

Nutr. Assoc. : 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

* Exported from MasterCook *

                          Feathery Rum Pancakes

Recipe By     :Lisa Yockelson
Serving Size  : 10    Preparation Time :0:00
Categories    : Breakfast                       pancakes

  Amount  Measure       Ingredient -- Preparation Method
--------  ------------  --------------------------------
                        RUM-MARINATED RAISINS
     1/2           cup  raisins -- dark
  1         tablespoon  dark rum
                        RUM PANCAKE BATTER
  1 1/4           cups  all-purpose flour
     1/4           cup  cake flour
  1           teaspoon  baking powder
     3/4      teaspoon  baking soda
     1/8      teaspoon  salt
     1/4      teaspoon  nutmeg
     1/8      teaspoon  cinnamon
     1/4           cup  sugar
  3              large  eggs -- separated
  1 1/4           cups  buttermilk
  4        tablespoons  unsalted butter -- melted and cooled
  1         tablespoon  dark rum
  1 1/2      teaspoons  vanilla extract
     1/8      teaspoon  cream of tartar
                        clarified butter for the griddle.  (I just
                        used vegetable oil)

Place the raisins in a mixing bowl.  Spoon over rum, toss and let stand for 15 minutes.

Sift the flours, baking powder, baking soda, salt, nutmeg, cinnamon, and sugar into a large mixing bowl.

Whisk the egg yolks, buttermilk, melted butter, rum and vanilla extract in a medium-size mixing bowl.

Beat the egg whites in a clean, dry mixing bowl until soft peaks are formed, add the cream of tartar, and continue beating until firm (not stiff) peaks are formed.

Pour the egg yolk-buttermilk mixture over the dry ingredients and stir to form a batter.  Stir in the rum-raising mixture.  Let the batter stand for 1 minute.

Mix a large spoonful of the beaten egg whited into the batter to lighten it, then blend in the remaining whites, mixing to incorporate all of the beaten whites into the batter. [Batter texture observation from the book:  fully integrate the beaten egg whites into the batter without leaving behind any streaks or "cotton ball" fluffs of egg white.]

Place a griddle over moderate high heat (I use moderate low heat) and film the surface with a little clarified butter (or oil).  Place 2-tablespoon-size puddles of batter on the preheated griddle and cook the pancakes for about 1 minute until the edges are set and the undersides are golden.  Flip the pancakes and cook for about another 45 seconds to 1 minute.

Serve the pancakes hot off the griddle, sprinkled with confectioners' sugar, if you wish, and a generous spoonful of the creamy rum sauce.

  "Baking by Flavor; page 464"
  "3 dozen"

                                    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Per Serving (excluding unknown items): 190 Calories; 6g Fat (31.4% calories from fat); 5g Protein; 27g Carbohydrate; 1g Dietary Fiber; 70mg Cholesterol; 221mg Sodium.  Exchanges: 1 Grain(Starch); 0 Lean Meat; 1/2 Fruit; 0 Non-Fat Milk; 1 Fat; 1/2 Other Carbohydrates.

NOTES : Since I'm not a huge raisin fan, I omitted the raisins and added the rum "soak" with the rum in the other part of the recipe.

The recipe indicates making about 3 dozen pancakes which I estimated to serve 10 (just FYI if looking at the nutrition information)
Nutr. Assoc. : 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

* Exported from MasterCook *

                     Creamy Brown Sugar and Rum Sauce

Recipe By     :Lisa Yockelson
Serving Size  : 0     Preparation Time :0:00
Categories    : sauces

  Amount  Measure       Ingredient -- Preparation Method
--------  ------------  --------------------------------
     1/2           cup  light brown sugar -- firmly packed
  3        tablespoons  sugar
     1/3           cup  heavy cream -- plus 2 tablespoons
  6        tablespoons  unsalted butter -- cut into chunks
                 pinch  salt
  2 1/2    tablespoons  dark rum
  1           teaspoon  vanilla extract
     1/3           cup  chopped nuts -- pecans or walnuts, toasted and cooled.  OPTIONAL

Place the sugars, cream, butter, salt, and 1 1/2 tablespoons rum in a medium-size saucepan.  Set over moderately low heat and cook slowly until sugar melts down completely, about 3 minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon or flat wooden paddle. 

Raise the heat to high, bring to the boil (the sauce will begin to bubble around the perimeter of the pan at first), then reduce the heat and cook at a low boil for 3 to 4 minutes, or until lightly thickened.

Remove from heat.  Stir in the vanilla extract and remaining 1 tablespoon of rum.  Stir in the optional nuts.  Use the sauce while it is warm and fluid.

The sauce -- without the addition of the chopped nuts -- may be stored in an airtight container and refrigerated for up to 2 days.  To use the refrigerated sauce, heat the sauce in a heavy saucepan until smooth and liquified, bring to the simmer, and simmer steadily for 2 to 3 minutes before using.  Stir in the nuts, if using, and serve.

  "Baking by Flavor, page 466"
  "1 1/3 cups (without the nuts)"

                                    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Per Serving (excluding unknown items): 1686 Calories; 125g Fat (68.1% calories from fat); 10g Protein; 122g Carbohydrate; 5g Dietary Fiber; 295mg Cholesterol; 73mg Sodium.  Exchanges: 1/2 Grain(Starch); 1 Lean Meat; 0 Non-Fat Milk; 24 1/2 Fat; 7 Other Carbohydrates.

Serving Ideas : Great served over the rum pancakes!

NOTES : Nutrition info given is for the entire batch.
Nutr. Assoc. : 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0


Jean's picture

(post #62595, reply #15 of 16)

Ohhh, yum, that sounds good. My blood sugar just went  up to 350 reading the recipe.


The quality of our later life will be determined by the life
we have already shaped.  -- Rose Kennedy   


A  clear conscience is usually the sign of a bad memory.
help to provide free mammograms for women in need
doyenne's picture

(post #62595, reply #16 of 16)

While you're baking your way through the book, please note the correction to the  Cinnamon Butter Rosebud recipe on page 304. I had noticed the discrepancy between the amount of butter called for in the filling as opposed to the amount shown in the directions. I got the folowing change from Lisa Yokelson.

  " Thank you for your note regarding BAKING BY FLAVOR.

    To address your questions:

    The amount of butter in the "Cinnamon Butter Filling"  on page 304 should read:

    1/4 pound (8 tablespoons or 1 stick). The change will be made in the next printing of the book;

thank you so much! "    

I can't remember today what it was I  couldn't remember yesterday

Where is Monica Lewinski when you need her?

MadMom's picture

(post #62595, reply #10 of 16)

Okay, served the lemon crepes tonight.  The lemon filling was TDF, and I really liked the crepes.  You're right; the subtle taste of lemon in the crepes is great.  This recipe is definitely a keeper.  I urge anyone who hasn't tried it already to run, don't walk, to get some lemons and go for it!  Delicious.  DH was suitably impressed.

Things are going to get a lot worse before they get worse.
Lily Tomlin

Fledge's picture

(post #62595, reply #11 of 16)

Now I will have you know, I tried to slip money to Willie at your house, and have him p/u your Myer lemon tree for me.

He wouldn't do it, he said yall are gone too much.


Off the hook?

Ragin Cajun

You don't scare me

I have an African Grey

MadMom's picture

(post #62595, reply #12 of 16)

Just wait till I get my hands on him!  (Of course, he's right, as always, which only makes it worse!)

Things are going to get a lot worse before they get worse.
Lily Tomlin

Fledge's picture

(post #62595, reply #13 of 16)

I aint lyin.

Ragin Cajun

You don't scare me

I have an African Grey

Wolvie's picture

(post #62595, reply #4 of 16)

I recently bought this book - I made the buttercrunch coffee cake - it's TDF!

Woe to the cook whose sauce has no sting
- Chaucer