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Great Book Find

Carolina's picture

Great Book Find (post #58857)

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I'm just finishing up a great new book that Santa brought to me called DINING OUT by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page. (They also wrote BECOMING A CHEF and CULINARY ARTISTRY.) It is a fasinating study of restaurant critics, chefs and restaurateurs. A real behind the scenes look at what goes on when you mix them all together. Amazon.com has a slew of reviews about the book, if you're interested. It's really a fun read and I highly recommend it.

Gerard's picture

(post #58857, reply #1 of 12)

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What did they say about food critics?
I used to chat with Karen over on compuserve when she first wrote the becoming a chef book.
Most of the places she wrote about in Boston went belly up, I knew she asked critics which chefs to interview, my position has always been "what do food writers know", not much.
I would love to write about food critics, some I have become friendly with over the yrs so it would be tricky, maybe a non de plume.

One critic who was being paid $185K yr asked me if I created brandade (it was on my menu).
If you know what brandade is you'll know how idiotic the question was.

The best food writer I know of is Molly O'Neil at the NY Times, she was an actual chef for more than 10 yrs and actually DOES know what she's talking about.

Karen Dornenberg is a nice gal, didn't seem to know what she was writing about but did a great reporting job and hit paydirt with the book.

Regards, Gerard

Chiffonade_'s picture

(post #58857, reply #2 of 12)

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Mmmmmmm....Brandade..Potato and cod spread - it is wonderful. And I totally get the gist of what you mean, how idiotic the question is...brandade has been around for ages!

He is not known as a food critic but I have enjoyed the recent reviews of David Rosengarten in Gourmet. I went to a demo he put on for my school, Peter Kump's in NY, and he told us he got the gig at Gourmet.

He knows what he is talkiing about and I enjoy his work.

Carolina's picture

(post #58857, reply #3 of 12)

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Basically, the book says there good and bad food critics, just as there are good and bad chefs. Along the way, they present the facts to back up what they found in their study.

Gerard's picture

(post #58857, reply #4 of 12)

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I also like David Rosengarten, does good research and tries to present it without pretentions that are so prevalent.

Brandade, salt cod(poached)
olive oil
boiled potato
garlic etc etc.
Love it.!

Gerard's picture

(post #58857, reply #5 of 12)

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Carolina,

Do they name names?
Any of the Boston critics mentioned?
Boy, I could write a few things there.
I'll have to look at the book.!

Thanks, Gerard

Sandra_'s picture

(post #58857, reply #6 of 12)

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So fill the rest of us in on the secret. Brandade? What is it? Where can I find it and/or make it? How do I use it?

Ignorant, but salivating, in White Rock...
Sandra

Carolina's picture

(post #58857, reply #7 of 12)

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Gerard,

Buy the book! Lose a night's sleep. It will be worth it.

Gerard's picture

(post #58857, reply #8 of 12)

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They have a recipe here, be sure to soak the salt cod (remove bones) in cold water, change water twice and let soak a few hrs to get the salt out, don't boil it , just poach. The rest of the recipe looks ok.

http://www.culinarycafe.com/Ethnic_Dishes/Brandade_De_Morue.html

Sandra_'s picture

(post #58857, reply #9 of 12)

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Great site. Thanks, Gerard.

Adele_'s picture

(post #58857, reply #10 of 12)

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I sent a detailed recipe this am on Brandade & it has never shown up. I'm testing to see what I did wrong.

Gerard's picture

(post #58857, reply #11 of 12)

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Sandra,

I only did what big bad mean chef is always saying you should do, try a net search with brandade, I got thousands of links and just looked at the first one, seems ok. But try exploring a bit.
We served it in a monkey dish, put shredded cheese on top and put under broiler til it bubbles, serve with bread points rubbed with garlic/drizzle tomato squeezing on top and sprinkle with kosher salt.
...or crackers if you're lazy like me.!

Regards, Gerard

Carolina's picture

(post #58857, reply #12 of 12)

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Gerard,

Here are a few names for you:

Boston critics: Corby Kummer, Alison Arnett

Boston restaurants: L'Espalier, Hamersley's Bistro, Al Forno (Providence, RI), Clio, Biba, East Coast Grill (Cambridge), Legal Sea Foods, Aujourd'hui, Il Capriccio (Waltham), Durgin Park

Boston chefs: Nick Tischler, Frank McClellan, Gordon Hamersley, George Germon, Johanne Killeen, Kenneth Oringer, Lydia Shire, Susan Regis, Jasper White, Rick Katz